Botswana: Serenades of the Endless Savannah
- Jens from SPARKLINGTRAVEL
- May 14, 2025
- 8 min read
Updated: Nov 6, 2025
Africa’s wild heart beat for us in moments, not in maps or miles. The spray of Victoria Falls lingered in our memories - a curtain of mist, the thunderous applause of water meeting rock, rainbows arching like promises above the gorge. Elsewhere, time slowed as we watched elephants cross the Chobe floodplains, their silent procession stirring ancient dust and awe within us. In the Okavango Delta, we drifted through mirrored channels, lilies and reeds brushing our hands, the world hushed except for the distant laughter of hippos. Nights in Moremi brought the pulse of the wild: we listened, breathless, as lions roared under a sky ablaze with stars. Each place left its mark, weaving our journey not of destinations, but of wonder.
We journey with Chamäleon Reisen to Botswana, where the wild hums with ageless songs and the land holds its misty secrets close. With Chamäleon Reisen, we drift along the glittering channels of the Okavango Delta, wander the endless salt plains of the Makgadikgadi, and watch herds shimmer like living jewels along the Chobe’s edge. In the stillness of the Kalahari, we feel nature’s quiet pulse, a rhythm of silence and connection. Guided by locals who carry Africa’s soul in their footsteps, Chamäleon Reisen leads us to discover not just wildlife, but life itself - its heartbeat echoing across every plain, every river, and every step we take.
NATURAL WONDER VICTORIA FALLS
Our adventure began with the legendary Victoria Falls, where we stood in awe as the mighty Zambezi thundered over 100 meters into the abyss. Walking the circular trail, each turn revealed breathtaking views and perfect photo moments. The spray soared up to 200 meters, visible from afar, earning the falls their local name, Mosi-oa-Tunya - “the smoke that thunders”. Surrounding us was a lush tropical rainforest, thriving on the constant mist, a vibrant sanctuary alive with nature’s pulse. This UNESCO World Heritage site was not just a sight but a living, breathing wonder that stirred our souls deeply.
Ilala Lodge
We wholeheartedly recommend the family-run Ilala Lodge, just a short walk from Victoria Falls. From our thoughtfully decorated room’s balcony, we marveled at the lush Victoria Falls National Park and watched warthogs graze peacefully in the garden. The inviting pool and cocktail bar offered perfect relaxation, while dining at The Cassia Restaurant - one of the country’s finest - was a culinary delight, accompanied by the majestic roar of the falls.
FROM ZIMBABWE TO BOTSWANA
We traveled straight through Zambezi National Park toward Botswana, where the Chobe River awaited us. Arriving in Kasane, right on the river and at the edge of Chobe National Park, we found a place famous for its large herds of buffalo and elephants.
CHOBE NATIONAL PARK
It was time for our first safari. Chobe National Park revealed the full spectrum of Africa’s wildlife, and from our open vehicle, we felt thrillingly close to animals rarely seen by the river. In the morning, the plains were alive - herds grazing, predators like lions and leopards resting in the shade, sometimes visible if luck was with us. By midday, the animals lounged lazily in the shadows, just as we relaxed by our lodge’s pool. In the afternoon, a three-hour boat trip awaited. The open riverbanks offered unforgettable sights: elephants bathing, hippos, crocodiles, and countless antelopes, all accompanied by birdsong and the iconic call of the African fish eagle.
Chobe Bush Lodge
The Chobe Bush Lodge in Kasane, nestled close to the Chobe River and National Park, offers a perfect blend of comfort and nature. The charming thatched cottages, crafted from local wood, create a warm, authentic atmosphere. Each spacious, uniquely decorated room features a private terrace or balcony. Wandering the beautiful garden and cooling off in the pool, we were delighted to spot warthogs, bushbucks, and baboons nearby - an unforgettable experience.
BAOBABS IN PLANET BAOBAB CAMP
We savored one last morning in Chobe before setting off toward Gweta. After settling into our lodge - unless elephants happened to wander by - we joined our guide for an afternoon walk through the Mopane woodland. The path led us to a waterhole, encircled by ancient baobabs and ana trees, some over 4,000 years old. The baobab, a symbol of untouched wilderness, stood majestic and mysterious, its roots seemingly reaching for the sky. We listened to tales and legends, imagining the tree’s upside-down silhouette as a bridge between earth and sky, and felt deeply connected to Africa’s timeless spirit.
THE MAKGADIKGADI SALT PANS
At dawn, we set out for the vast Makgadikgadi Salt Pans - one of the world’s largest, stretching over 12,000 square kilometers. This immense, otherworldly landscape was once a great lake, fed by the Okavango River, but over time it dried into a shimmering expanse of white salt that stretched endlessly before us. As we quietly walked along the edge of Ntwetwe Pan, the stillness was broken only by the distant calls of wildlife. We spotted graceful zebras, elegant oryx, and nimble springboks moving across the salt flats. Nearby, a lively meerkat colony entertained us with their playful antics, reminding us of the delicate balance of life thriving in this harsh environment.
Planet Baobab Camp
Planet Baobab Camp captures the spirit of a traditional Bakalanga village. We stayed in comfortable, beautifully decorated clay rondavels scattered across the spacious grounds, shaded by ancient, towering baobab trees. These iconic giants survive the harsh Makgadikgadi salt pan climate by storing water in their massive trunks. Cheerful colors, welcoming staff, and a relaxed atmosphere offered a vibrant contrast to the dry heat of the Kalahari. After a day of adventure, the refreshing pool was the perfect place to unwind and soak in the camp’s unique charm.
WILD AFRICA
Arriving in Maun, the gateway to the Okavango Delta, we were greeted by the gentle rhythm of daily life - cattle and goats wandering along the roads, the air filled with anticipation. Our journey continued through rugged terrain until we reached the edge of the Moremi Game Reserve, a pristine wilderness renowned as one of the most beautiful and exciting wildlife sanctuaries in the world. Here, our lodge was surrounded by untouched nature, offering daily encounters with elephants, buffalo, lions, and countless birds. With no one else for miles, we felt immersed in pure tranquility, ending each day with a delicious dinner beneath the vast African sky.
MOREMI GAME RESERVE, RICH IN WILDLIFE
Our excursion into the Moremi Game Reserve filled us with awe. At dawn, we set off in open 4x4 vehicles, venturing deep into the Okavango Delta. This UNESCO World Heritage site, since 2014, is renowned for its incredible diversity - massive herds of elephants and buffalo, and all the great predators of southern Africa roam freely here. The Okavango brings immense volumes of water, transforming the usually modest mopane shrubs into towering trees. As the sun set, painting the sky in gold and crimson, we returned to our lodge, hearts full from a day surrounded by the wild’s untamed beauty.
THE DELTA FROM A BIRDS EYE VIEW
Before the first light touched the horizon, we climbed into our open safari vehicle, the air crisp with anticipation. The road to Moremi Game Reserve seemed to hum with possibility - every shadow a promise of leopards slipping silently through the bush, every rustle a hope for the rare African wild dog. By midday, the landscape opened to Xakanaxa, where the land surrendered to water. We traded wheels for a small boat and drifted into the labyrinth of channels, surrounded by the music of countless birds - flashes of color darting through reeds, their calls echoing across the delta.
Crocodiles basked on sandy banks, hippos grazed in the shallows, and elephants appeared like ancient guardians, their reflections shimmering on the water’s surface. Overhead, fish eagles circled, their cries mingling with the wild chorus. The world felt vast and intimate at once.
Then, as the afternoon waned, a small plane awaited us. We soared above the Okavango Delta, its mosaic of water and islands unfolding beneath our wings - a view so breathtaking, it felt like flying through a living painting. When we landed in Maun and returned to our lodge, the day’s adventures replayed in our minds: a journey stitched together by wonder, from the ground, across the water, and high above the wild heart of Africa.
Gomoti River Lodge
At Gomoti River Lodge, nestled in the Okavango Delta on the edge of the Moremi Game Reserve, we stayed in one of nineteen comfortable safari tents with private bathrooms, each perched on raised wooden platforms along the lagoon. From our veranda, we gazed out over the river’s floodplains into the bush savanna, where elephants and antelope often wandered by. Each morning, the excited chorus of birds welcomed us to a new day, while evenings brought magical moments around the campfire on the sundowner deck, the air filled with stories and the gentle sounds of the wild.
CONTRASTS: FROM THE OKAVANGO DELTA TO THE KALAHARI DESERT
The Kalahari welcomed us with its vast red sands glowing under the sun. The air shifted from scorching heat to cool dusk, revealing the desert’s wild contrasts. Near Ghanzi, we met the San people, whose smiles held ancient wisdom. Walking with them, we learned to read animal tracks and discovered healing plants hidden in the sand. Their stories, filled with pride and laughter, brought the desert to life. In that moment, we felt the deep heartbeat of the Kalahari and the spirit of the world’s oldest culture - a connection we will always cherish.
Symponia Guesthouse
We found Symponia Guesthouse about 7 kilometers outside Ghanzi, the so-called "capital of the Kalahari." This small, owner-run guesthouse charmed us with its focus on personal service and a warm, family atmosphere. We stayed in one of eight spacious rooms, spread across several duplex cottages. The main house, with its reception and terrace restaurant, invited us to relax and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
ONJALA WILDLIFE PARK
Today we crossed into Namibia, greeted by sweeping landscapes and a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The delicious cuisine and tranquil surroundings offered the perfect setting to let the memories of our recent adventures settle in. As night fell, we found ourselves beneath a crystal-clear sky, where one of the world’s best telescopes awaited. Gazing upward, we marveled at double stars, star clusters, and glowing nebulae - each a reminder of how vast and beautiful the world, and our journey, truly is.
Before the sun crested the horizon, we stepped quietly into the awakening thornbush savanna. The air was cool and alive with promise. Each footstep felt like a gentle invitation to the wild world around us. Suddenly, a giraffe appeared, its silhouette elegant against the soft morning light. Mountain zebras and kudus moved silently through the grass, their presence both fleeting and magical.
The wind carried the scent of earth and freedom as we searched for oryx, springboks, and ostriches. Every encounter felt like a gift - a fleeting moment of connection with Namibia’s wild soul, each one captured in a photo and forever in our memories. As evening fell, we watched the sun melt into the horizon, painting the sky with gold and crimson. In that quiet, glowing moment, the beauty of Namibia settled deep within us, a memory we knew we’d carry long after the journey ended.
Onjala Lodge
At Onjala Lodge, led by Heiner Soltau, we immersed ourselves in a 4,700-hectare, unfenced wildlife park where mountain zebras, giraffes, ostriches, kudus, and other antelopes roam freely. The main building, crafted from natural materials, offered stunning views from the balconies of its eleven rooms across the vast Namibian plains and rocky formations. We enjoyed the nature trail, cozy seating areas, two refreshing pools, and Zelda Soltau’s revitalizing steam showers. Massages and treatments at the ZenSations Spa completed our stay. The Onjala Community Project supports the lodge’s staff with a welcoming community house, a cause backed by the Chamäleon Foundation since 2018.
EPILOGUE
As our journey drew to a close, the wild beauty of Africa lingered in our hearts. Each sunrise, animal encounter, and golden sunset became part of us. We left with gratitude - for the vast landscapes, the vibrant wildlife, and the quiet moments beneath endless skies - knowing these memories would inspire us long after we returned home.
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